Stage 1 : Base preparation

A good base could also be 4 concrete flags with a good solid sub base, they would need to be placed under each corner, concrete blocks could also be used or a hard standing. It's not recommended to place the frame on grass or soil.

Bits n' Bobs

  • All coach bolts, nylon lock nuts, and washers are supplied. To protect it from the elements and further enhance the appearance once assembled the fire oven base can be easily painted in something like 'Hammerite'.

Stage 2:

Spread fire cement paste onto base about 2mm thick. Try to get this layer as even as possible, this will avoid too much 'tamping' down after placing the firebricks.


Stage 3 Building the arch starter bricks:

Stage 4: Building the arch and back

Building the arch bricks to form the barrel vault is easy, we even supply you with a wooden template to support each column of bricks, once each ring has been built, and you can remove the template and work forward to the next one. The template is seated on two 76mm bricks, so you make sure you don’t use them (the 76mm bricks) on the back until you have built the arches. We have built this oven in the manner  that we expect most DIY builders to do, as such we have not bonded the brick courses, we have still glued them together with the fire cement. Non bonding refers to the courses of bricks not being tied in with a half brick and a full brick.
If you wish you can use a bonded pattern but you will need a few diamond disk blades or a Stihl saw. Once the arch and chimney are in place,  its best to fire up the oven a little to set the fire cement.
If you need to tidy the joints up on the inside just squeeze some more fire cement into the defects to make good.


Clean Joints with spatula

The rear is built with the
remaining 76mm bricks

Stage 5: Adding the twin wall chimney flue

Three cuts are required to fit the chimney flue starter piece
A couple of  cuts are required down the sides of two bricks to allow for the flue
One brick will be cut, about half way across

If you don’t fancy cutting the bricks, just ask us, for a small charge of just £9.50 we will do it for you and even number them.
Make sure the starter ring is a snug fit, fill around with fire cement paste to ensure a good seal.
When the fire is lit the fire cement will cure and harden. The outer render coat will also ensure the chimney is held in place rigidly.
The stainless steel twin walled duct is then simply screwed onto the starter section, the twin walling helps keep things a little cooler & safer .

Of course the chimney flue still gets hot, but it’s a lot cooler than a single skin duct kit.
All you do have to do is  fix the rain cap on
When the fire is lit the fire cement will cure and harden. The outer render coat will also ensure the chimney is held in place rigidly.

After assembly

Once the base and frame have been assembled and it is level, the one piece tray is filled with the ceramic sheets or you could make an insulated concrete mix yourself If making a pourable concrete base, cover to protect from the rain once set, (normally the next day, you can then proceed to the next stage of building your fire brick oven.
If you are using our ceramic sheets you can proceed to stage two, the firebrick base.


tap down to make sure they are level and no ridges to catch your peel or trays



Using the cement paste again lay two course of the flat 76mm bricks.
One 76mm brick high only to allow and form lower arch.
One 76mm course at front with arch brick on to show different angle to rest.

Don’t be shy use your fingers, a lot of builders do this, out of sight, (with a marigold glove on of course!)
The bricks to form the back require a few cuts but these can be done with a hammer and chisel they don’t have to be too neat, it’s the front end that you will be looking at. Make sure the bricks at the back cover as much of the rear as possible as you may get thermal bridging if its thinner than the rest.
The oven at this stage has no chimney or insulated render, it will still cook but will use more wood and not retain as much heat as the insulated option. Don’t worry about that lovely clean arch that has now gone black, that’s what happens, it gives it an instant “I’ve been used a lot look”

Lighting a small fire to cure and set the fire cement



Twin walled Stainless
Steel tubing

insulated cedar wood door keeps the heat in even longer

The special ceramic fibre blanket is designed to withstand temperatures of up to 1260c, this really is space shuttle stuff!

This is how our firebrick ovens work, the fire bricks absorb and hold heat, the ceramic blanket stops the heat from escaping, once the oven has been lit with a good fire for a couple of hours, you can cook in the oven for hours and hours, they are still nice and warm the next day. For this method of cooking they work better with the optional insulated oven door.
The oven is covered with 50mm of this material; it is supplied in a 25mm thickness to ensure it can be applied in a seamless manner. Once the insulation material has been draped over (don’t forget the back section will also need doing) it is covered with wire mesh, this needs to be pulled tight to compact the material a little and form a fairly ridged surface.
The mesh can be held in place with a few bits of wire and panel pin nails carefully tapped into the base sides of the lower walls (mortar gaps)
Once this is in place you are ready to add the anti-crack render base coat.
All you need to do is put the powder into a clean large bucket (one of those gorilla buckets) add clean water to the base coat powder and give it a good  mix
(All instructions are on the bag)
A purpose made whisk which can go in the chuck of your drill will make things easier and ensure that the mix is homogenous, a whisk can  be purchased at most DIY outlets such as B&Q or cheaper perhaps from somewhere like

Trowel apply the render onto the mesh and blanket, don’t worry about getting it super flat, just get it on, any spills of render material at this stage can be picked up and re-used. Leave the render to dry a little and shape with a wooden or plastic float into the general shape of the oven, (B&Q or Toolstation again)

Don’t over work this material or you will pull it off along with clumps of fire blanket, don’t forget it’s a base coat. Before it fully hardens you can form a light scratch pattern into it, diamond or lines, makes no difference use a nail or the edge of a steel float, just don’t go too deep.
Once this has dried (the next day usually) you can apply the second decorative re-enforced coloured render.

Mix the coloured render in a clean bucket, and trowel onto the base render, shape a little and leave to semi cure, this “thumbprint green” stage is when you should shape the render and sort out imperfections, filling and shaping with a wooden or plastic float. Don’t be tempted to use any droppings of coloured render, unless they are clean and no  lumps have formed.  Using contaminated render may spoil the looks of the finish, even so how you want to finish it is up to you, it can be just slapped on for that “mud hut look”
The render does not require painting; it also contains a silicone additive to repel water.
The through coloured render makes a perfect crack resistant render, which will make your oven look attractive and protect it from the elements  
With 20 different colours available you should have no problems picking a colour.


Your finished 'FireBrick Oven'